Leonard’s Food Quarters

By Bill Coyne

1708 Gerstner Memorial Drive,  Lake Charles

So many times. It happens like a subconscious routine. I sit idle at the traffic light waiting on green, and Leonard’s Food Quarters beckons to me through the glare of the windshield. As people pass through the door and vehicles line up at the drive-thru window, I always make a mental note to get back in there.

So, recently, without my wife’s knowledge or permission, I slipped into Leonard’s Food Quarters for a late lunch. It was one of those decisions that would later expose my whereabouts.

The place was same as it had had been for many years.  The back counter wall is adorned with articles, newspaper snippets, and family photos, a reminder of the rich history Leonard‘s shares with Lake Charles. 

It all began in 1957, when Leonard Fuselier, then only 16 years old, was working as a dishwasher in a long-gone bowling alley on First Avenue in Lake Charles.  His manager, Charles Dickson, ventured out to open Tony’s Pizza.  Leonard joined the team and remained a loyal employee for 28 years.  There he gained enough experience and knowledge to create his own restaurant in 1986.  Now, Leonard’s prepares to celebrate their 40th year of bringing the taste of the New Orleans French Quarter to southwest Louisiana.

I stood for a few moments at the counter staring at the digital menus streaming photos of a variety of enticing plates.  The kind ladies ready to take my order assured me there was no rush.  From fluffy scrambled egg breakfast platters to poboys, stuffed potatoes, full dinners and packaged desserts, there’s something for any appetite. 

But I was there for “lunch,” and the Zydeco Poboy kept calling my name. After placing my order, I followed the green and white checkerboard tiles to the dining room and took a seat.  I took the time to read the hand painted signs of praise, thankful for food, family and faith, and the awards Leonard’s has received over the years. 

Soon, the table buzzer jolted into action, threatening to cast itself from the table if not immediately secured. That was followed by “order 15!”, called from a woman who stepped from behind the kitchen door to place my food in the small dispersement area.

Back at my seat, I snapped a few photos and tasted a couple of the piping hot seasoned fries before wrapping my hands around the poboy. 

Now, we all know we have a pretty strong poboy game here in Lake Charles. From the mainstreamers to the daydreamers, they all offer something a little different. But, this first touchy-feely thing was unlike the others. There was a definitive toasty crunch to the exterior, a warm pillowy softness to the inside, and just the right amount of tug and pull in the bread to keep it all together, bite after bite. And that says a lot, especially when you have slow simmered seasoned roast beef, sautéed bell peppers and onions and melted Swiss, all piled inside, ready to be dipped into a robust gravy.

It took everything I had to finish this poboy. I wasn’t going to leave a single bite behind. And I could not have done it without a little extra time at the table and the help of a large number of napkins.

A few hours later I was back at home, where my wife noticed it odd that I wasn’t cooking dinner or suggesting a restaurant to go out to. I’d been found out. I admitted I’d had a big lunch at Leonard’s. To make it up to her, I promised we’d meet there for dinner one evening after work.

Shyla is a planner.  If she knows we’re going to eat somewhere, she will generally look through their online menu and have an idea of what she wants to do long before we ever get there. Me, not so much. Once inside and standing at the counter, She narrowed her choices down to a couple of items and still went back-and-forth on those for a few minutes before deciding.  Same procedure, same fashion, same booth, same ambitious buzzer, our food was ready. The tray had a bit of weight upon it, steam gently puffing from the slits of the Styrofoam container with each step to the table. Shyla and I sat side-by-side in the booth like high-schoolers, opening the lids to reveal the meals.

Shyla chose the beef tips over rice smothered in gravy. Fork-tender chunks of slow cooked beef nearly melted in the mouth, and the rich savory gravy coated the tongue. 

Myself, I’m not going to pass on the seafood pasta. The menu description drew me in. Boiled shrimp and crawfish tails tossed in a creamy Alfredo sauce over a bed of linguini. It was a solid choice.  The shrimp and crawfish tails had just enough spice to carry that signature blend of Cajun and Creole heat, all while being bathed in a cheesy buttery cream sauce.

I’d be doing a disservice, though, if I didn’t mention one aspect of this. meal. 

When it comes to the green beans, I could not fault a person if they dared ask for a second serving. These green beans were what any true southern cook strives for. Leonard‘s nailed it.

Leonard’s does not skimp on their meals. And, luckily, when you order, whether you are dining in or taking it to go, it will be served in a Styrofoam container. And, if you are like me and Shyla, and many others I’ve witnessed in the dining room, you’re not going to be able to finish it all in one sitting. You simply close the lid, grab a little carry bag, and take it home for round two. 

There’s one caveat to all this goodness.  Leonard’s is only available Monday through Friday, 7 am to 9 pm, but delivery is available if you can’t make the weekday drive.

Now, you would think that after dedicating so many years to the restaurant industry, and 40 years in your own restaurant, that you would gladly bask in the light of retirement. But, Mr. Leonard Fuselier still shows up to cut that bread each and every morning.

Happy 40th anniversary, Leonard’s Food Quarters