By Diana Vallette
Lyle Broussard, executive chef for Crying Eagle-Lakefront, has been cooking for over 20 years. It’s the only thing he’s ever done professionally and that’s because it’s his passion. “Even when I was a kid I knew I wanted to do this,” says Broussard. The trick to not getting burnt out? “Keep learning and evolving,” he says. “You learn techniques and discipline from school, which is good, but when you’re actually in charge of a whole operation… that’s when you really learn.”
Broussard was raised in Lake Charles, where his grandparents owned Louis’ Drive In. The tiny restaurant served American bites like fried shrimp and hamburgers. “That place was always packed,” says Broussard. “I remember being young and being in the kitchen with my cousins.”
When he was a kid, his family often got together on the weekend and broke bread; food was religion for Broussard’s family, like it is for so many in Southwest Louisiana.
History
Broussard received formal training at Culinary Institute of America. “One time when I was in school I had to do an eight-hour baking class,” says Broussard. “Our plane was late and we got into New York at two o’clock in the morning. The test started at 5 am and took a full eight hours. So, that’s on Monday morning. If you fail one part of the test, you fail the whole week,” he says.
He’ll travel back to New York in October, representing Southwest Louisiana at Taste Louisiana. The event is a one-night culinary event designed to position our state as a premier culinary destination. Attendees will sample bites from 11 participating chefs and enjoy performances by Wayne Toups and David St. Romain.
His first kitchen job was Isle of Capri as a dishwasher working graveyards. After that he slowly moved up spending time at Paragon in Marksville where he opened steakhouse Legends. Eventually, the drive got old and he split his time between Harrah’s and Mazen’s before transitioning to Jack Daniels in L’Auberge casino.
Now, after a long stint at the casino, he joins Crying Eagle-Lakefront, one of the largest microbrewery restaurants in the country. Crying Eagle’s original location opened in 2016; now they serve over 200,000 guests per year. The lakefront location is a 12,000-square-foot, two-story location with a seafood-heavy menu. The new location will emphasize their lagers and offer both table service and a waterfront to-go ordering station.
“It wasn’t a scary jump because of Eric,” Broussard says of Crying Eagle owner Eric Avery. The two met at a beer pairing dinner years ago where Broussard was the featured chef.
“So Eric shows up, and I meet him, and we eat and we talk, and we just always kept in touch,” says Broussard.
Broussard said immediately after seeing the location, he was sold. “You go out to the second floor and it’s the best view. When I saw that I was like, yeah, I could do this. So I made the jump,” he said.
Broussard and his team built the menu from scratch. “I’ve literally cooked every single item, made the tweaks, adjusted. We just finished the dessert portion yesterday,” he says. “I wish I could tell you about it but we’ve been intentional about keeping the menu a secret. What I can say? It’s quality seafood. The restaurant, the atmosphere and the menu: they work together perfectly.”
Broussard says working with Avery is easy. “He’s real and he’s open. You know, he hired me to do a job. and he lets me do my job; he doesn’t micromanage. The thing about him is he believes and invests in people. The first time I walked in here, I was shocked. I’ve never seen a place where everyone working is just… happy. That says a lot about what type of boss he is. It’s a vibe here. Low turnover,” he says.
Avery says part of the reason his employees are so satisfied is the mentality he and his mother, Fran Avery, share. “I’m not the smartest guy in the room, and I’m not the most successful, but, if my staff trusts me with something as important as their career then we don’t take that lightly. I’m going to work tirelessly to make sure they feel satisfied, fulfilled and happy going to work.
“You know, no matter what we try to tell people, they still imagine it’s going to be like the other location,” says Avery. “Lyle’s got this level of charm and charisma that very few people have. Obviously he’s a fantastic chef, but he’s also an engaging, fun person with a sweet, sensitive soul. You can’t help but love him. More important than any of that? He’s an incredible mentor and people like to work with him. I knew if he came on board I wouldn’t have to worry about staffing.”
Avery was right; the restaurant was fully staffed quickly. In addition to being well liked by his peers, Broussard’s been recognized by the Louisiana Seafood Cook-Off, ACFNO’s Best Chefs of Louisiana and won Visit Lake Charles’ outstanding culinary professional award.
He doesn’t claim to know everything, and gives credit to the chefs he’s worked under like Kevin Thompson who he says taught him to be humble.
In his kitchen, Broussard is a thoughtful teacher. “If someone does something wrong, it’s important to share with them why there’s a better way. Teach. Lead.”
Broussard brought on with him sous chefs he’s worked with over the years including Devin, who he described as “positive, talented and energetic.” The pair worked together at Graywood when the general manager asked Broussard if he’d be willing to mentor the young chef.
Also working with him is LaDonna Broussard who the executive chef says is very organized.
“I look for sous chefs with positive energy and a different outlook than I have,” he says. He focuses on working with people who bring a different perspective and way of doing things.
“I believe people should cook what they love. That’s what I’m doing here, and I cannot wait to see what the public’s reaction is. I’m so glad I got this opportunity and I’m excited about what’s next. I’m so glad I said yes.”
Death row meal? A pile of crawfish boiled by one of his brothers. “Normally I’m a five pound guy, but if it’s death row I’m going for 10.” Add corn, potatoes, soft cracklins and an ice cold beer.
When he’s not in the kitchen you can find Broussard riding one of his three horses. As of Lagniappe’s press date, Sept. 15 was set as the lakefront’s soft opening for family, friends and media.
For more information on Broussard or Crying Eagle, cryingeagle.com.
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