2624 Gerstner Memorial Dr., Lake Charles
Oh, how I hear the jeers every single time. “We don’t need another Mexican restaurant,” they say.
It’s true; Southwest Louisiana has an abundance of Mexican restaurants. From fast food, food trucks and sit-down dining service, I dare say it’s the most populous cuisine in our little corner of Louisiana, outside of crawfish season.
However, there will always be someone who is willing to put their dreams into action, to put their name and life savings on the line to open their very own restaurant in hopes the public is accepting. I commend those who dare to step forward. And, if the food is good, I’ll do my part to spread the word about your passion.
Now, we’ve been here before, at this location just a few blocks north of I-210 on Gerstner Memorial Boulevard. As many times as this building has been painted over, you cannot mistake its previous life as a former Pizza Hut, evident in the architecture and window design of its time. And, we’ve seen another Mexican restaurant come through this building and then fold up shop, leaving the building sitting vacant and idle until local resident Blanca Ochoa opened El Rey to bring her favorite family recipes to us.
I’d heard great things about El Rey through the grapevine, prompting a promise to myself to visit. While Shyla was spending as much quality time as possible with our son, Dayton, while he was in town on leave, I had the opportunity to try something light and simple, and to see if it was worthy of a return trip or three.
For the sake of transparency and honesty, this experience review spans several visits. While I’m not going to break down each and every visit, I will convey my experience and the food, moving forward.
My first time here at El Rey, I walked in and was greeted by Ana, who advised me to take a seat wherever I’d like. First impression: The dining room décor is relaxed and subtle. Neutral colors set the soothing ambiance, a stark contrast to the busy color circus often associated to project the fiesta flair in Mexican dining. The restaurant is open from 11 am to 9 pm every day, and the menu features a long list of traditional combination platters, $9.99 daily lunch specials, a Mexican burger, and the succulent abundance of meat in the mocajete. The bar is simple, offering an assortment of beer, house margaritas, and a few mixed drink possibilities.
Along with an ice-cold beer to quench the summer thirst, Ana set a basket of chips and salsa in front of me. In all of my dining experiences, I don’t recall ever having chips so crispy and so hot that I actually had to wait a few moments to be able to grab the first one. I dipped it into the vibrant, fresh and zesty salsa roja.
I really wanted to start with something simple, and relatively light, so I opted for the chicken taco salad. This is something that I don’t typically order. I rarely order chicken, and although it wouldn’t hurt, I don’t order a salad as a main dish. Ana delivered with a smile. And, just as the chips were, the taco bowl was hot and crispy. Filled with pico de gallo, shredded mozzarella, and guacamole, it was all topped with juicy grilled chicken had amazing flavor. It made me second-guess why I don’t do this a little more often.
As I was enjoying my meal, in walked Daniel Lopez, the godfather of birria himself, along with his wife, Renee, who take a table a short distance away. My friend Mr. Lopez goes way back with the Casa Sabroso food truck, which had dominated the SWLA Mexican food truck scene back in the day. If you know, you know. If you don’t, I promise you missed out on something spectacular.
Ample time had passed, allowing us to finish our meals, before I took a seat with the couple, chatting about life, and the food at El Ray, and we all agreed on the great taste steaming from the kitchen.
In my subsequent visits, I had the pleasure of meeting Laridsa Campos, daughter of Blanca. Laridsa is well rehearsed, not only in the cuisine but in the restaurant industry, as well. It was reflected in her demeanor throughout the dining room.
This time, I had to try the Sunfire salsa. Prepared with roasted pineapple and smoky habanero, this chunky salsa combines a touch of heat and natural sweetness that adds a distinct flavor and really sets off a street taco or steak quesadilla. The burrito verde, loaded with seasoned strips of fajita beef, was not only visually appealing, but very flavorful and filling.
I was down to the wire, and I needed to make one more trip before composing this article. I wanted something that would really not only show in photos but come to life in print. I mean, everything in the kitchen is made from scratch. Everything is made fresh on a daily basis. They have handmade corn tortillas and an amazing crew behind it all. Laridsa and I went back and forth with suggestions, but I kept coming back to a particular entrée: Tosineta. With nothing more than a simple description under the fajita section, “shrimp wrapped in bacon,” I took the gamble. With everything that I’d had prior to this, I didn’t think I could go wrong.
Allow me to explain in detail this beautiful dish. Sitting before me was a platter of fresh, plump Louisiana shrimp, hand wrapped in bacon, seasoned, quick fried, and arranged as you see in the photo on the previous page. Add in all of the accompaniments like pineapple, guacamole, grilled onions and bell peppers, rice, refried beans, pico de gallo and a trio of warm tortillas. It was salty, it was sweet. It was so complex it was almost addicting. This is easily a personal favorite, and it’s something that sets El Rey apart from other restaurants.
As always, new restaurants need a little time to vibe and gel with their flow, to understand their day-to-day. Go in with an open mind and an empty stomach, and I’m sure El Rey will earn a spot on your dining rotation.
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