Augustine

949 Ryan Street, Lake Charles

For the first time in over five years, the streets of historic downtown Lake Charles have its first new full-service restaurant.

Augustine, the highly anticipated upscale dining experience, is Dave Evans’ namesake homage to his late mother, Rose Lucienne Augustine Guincestre, a reputable restauranteur of her time. 

Located in the Phoenix Building at the corner of Kirby and Ryan Streets, Augustine presents an upscale dining experience with a menu to suit any appetite. Evans, a proven restaurant mogul, collaborated with chef Eric McCree to create an exciting menu to attract the more than casual diner. The process from conception to fruition was seemingly quick, and the timing couldn’t have been more perfect, as I was able to secure a reservation for two for a perfect dinner date to celebrate my wife’s birthday.

As if the anticipation alone weren’t enough, the irresistible aroma of garlic and herbs intensify with each step closer to the restaurant. Shyla and I were seated at a cozy table for two, amidst a dining room full of first-time patrons. It was a who’s who kind of night, with glam, pizazz and elegance. Familiar faces were seen throughout, each snapping photos, eager as we are to share our opine and awe across the myriad of social platforms and text recipients.

Outside, the blistering summer sun was relentless.  Inside, heavy drapes stifled it, and the dining room was dark and dramatic. The purple hues of ripened plums and deep reds of burgundy, intertwined with natural woods and satin black fixtures, created the atmosphere.

The birthday girl and I were quickly welcomed by our server, Corey Johnson, a seasoned professional well versed in Southwest Louisiana cuisine and hospitality. Presented with a menu of specialty craft cocktails, I opted for the Pepperocini Margarita. It was sweeter than it was spicy, with its pineapple and lime, and a bite of pepper altered the dynamic. Shyla’s drink of choice was the Raspberry Drop. This is a smooth sipper. The flavor was reminiscent of the raspberry sherbet Push-Up Pops we bought with only a quarter as kids; this is the adult version.

The menu presented a sizable array of appetizers, and we really wanted to try them all. The blue crab spaghetti with lemon-dill crème featuring our local Pasta Lab’s fresh pasta, sounded amazing. However, on this visit we decided to try a variety of unique menu items not always available. In typical fashion, Shyla and I found it difficult to narrow things down to a single choice. You know how it goes. You pick one, I pick one, and somehow, we meet in the middle. We chose three.

To start, we had a cup of rich and flavorful duck and andouille gumbo. Next came the lobster French toast, which was thick and full of flavor. It was delicious — and a meal in itself.   Now, we had a long way to go to get through the evening, and I didn’t want to impede my appetite by filling up so early on the delicate chunks of lobster claw and cream sauce. The appetizer I most eagerly anticipated was the beef carpaccio. This is one of those dishes I am never willing to waver from. 

It was a carnivore’s dream. Tender and mouthwatering does not begin to describe everything that’s going on with each bite. The nearly paper-thin beef literally melted in my mouth. The flavors were enhanced with mild bitters of arugula, citrus vinaigrette and parmigiana, and fried capers for a vibrant and salty finish. 

To be honest, I would have been perfectly content had our meal service ended at this point. I’d have paid my bill and walked out on a high note, happy as a clam. 

But you know we couldn’t end a beautiful woman’s birthday and a Table Salt review that easily.

There was still a hustle and bustle across the full capacity dining room as we finished our appetizers. Dave Evans, donning his signature scally cap, touched each table with direct interaction with every guest. Corey checked on us often throughout the night, never missing a beat. As the table was cleared of plates, Corey informed us that we might want to put our entrée order in, as the kitchen was as busy as they expected and there might be a slight delay. For a restaurant so new and wildly popular, this was 100-percent anticipated and acceptable, and we assured him that we were in absolutely no rush.

After a bit, Shyla and I were ready to place our entrée orders. As my wife chose the Fish Augustine, this left me scrambling for a second option, a toss-up between the chicken cordon brie, a dish I later learned from our very own Diana Vallette could trigger an emotional response, and the duck breast. The latter won. 

If the kitchen were in a delay, it was minimal, as the entrées were represented in favorable time. Placed before Shyla was a beautiful pan-seared grouper, topped with fresh Gulf shrimp atop roasted asparagus in a poblano cream sauce. Flaky and delicate, it was a fantastic dish.

The duck breast was nestled in a raspberry reduction and was cooked to medium. The rendered fat created a touch of caramelized crisp to the edges, but the inside was tender and juicy. The duck fat offered an unmistakable richness in flavor — only slightly gamey, with nutty nuances that married into the duck confit potatoes as well. It was an easy favorite for future dining.

By this time, the crowd was thinning, the drapes were opened to reveal the last waning rays of sunlight between the downtown buildings.

We finished off Shyla’s birthday celebration with fresh blueberries atop a slice of decadent cheesecake for a sweet finish.

Our dinner service was nothing short of amazing. Augustine hit on all points — service, atmosphere, value and outstanding food. This highly anticipated newcomer is well received.

Note: Although Augustine has curtailed its reservations only seating, walk-ins are accepted, but reservations come highly recommended.